Buenos Aires
We spent the first few days in Buenos Aires, staying in the Palermo Soho section at 1555 Malabia House, an old convent converted into a hotel. We visited various neighborhoods on foot and via subway, and of course we spent the requisite evening at a tango club. Hanging out in a cemetery may not be at the top of your list, but the Cementerio de La Recoleta is a happenin' place, full of elaborate tombs and monuments to Argentina's rich and famous. There's some truth to the old saw about putting a fence around it because people are dying to get in: even Juan Peron didn't have enough pull to be buried there, but Eva got in through family connections.
We spent one delightful afternoon roaming the city by foot and bus with Maria and Evjord, who knew our son Dan in Florence before returning to Argentina to marry and pursue their musical careers. They took us to El Ateneo, a lovely old opera house converted into a very functional and modern bookstore while retaining many unique features from its operatic heyday. We had a snack in the on-stage coffee house, browsed books and CDs on four balconies, and descended from the center of the orchestra section into a well-stocked basement.
We spent one delightful afternoon roaming the city by foot and bus with Maria and Evjord, who knew our son Dan in Florence before returning to Argentina to marry and pursue their musical careers. They took us to El Ateneo, a lovely old opera house converted into a very functional and modern bookstore while retaining many unique features from its operatic heyday. We had a snack in the on-stage coffee house, browsed books and CDs on four balconies, and descended from the center of the orchestra section into a well-stocked basement.
Estancia La Porteña
On our last day in Buenos Aires, February 9th, we traveled northwest to San Antonio de Areco, home of the famous annual gaucho festival. After a brief stop at the Draghi Silver Museum, we spent the day at Estancia La Porteña, an historic property founded by great-grandfather of the famous author Ricardo Güiraldes and now managed by his great-grandson Gonzalo Susini. We had a splendid time wandering the property, riding horses, chatting with Gonzalo, enjoying an alfresco luncheon, and listening to an excellent gaucho musician.
Music video
Here is JC's video of the singer/guitar player at Estancia La Porteña.
The Horse Whisperer
This young gaucho, Martin, gave us an amazing demonstration of trust and rapport between horse and rider. The horse became very submissive and seemed almost in a trance as Martin coaxed him to lie down, roll on his back, and allow Martin to lie down on him and with him. Gonzalo, the estancia owner, spoke afterward about how quickly Martin had gained the horse's trust.
