Across the Gulf
On February 24th we sailed out of Fiordo Comau and west across the Golfo de Ancud bound for Isla Grande de Chiloé, the large island south of Puerto Montt that separates the gulf from the Pacific Ocean. At the mouth of the fjord, just off Isla Lilihuapi, we circled a pile of rocks housing a bird colony. Our presence was not appreciated as many of the tiny island's inhabitants soon took flight. We had an uneventful crossing and reached the Chiloé archipelago for lunch at Voigue Bay.
Cheniao and Mechuque
After lunch we headed towards Isla Cheniao and walked up on the cliff for some great views of the gulf. Then we cruised among the islands in the early evening sunlight and picked up an overnight mooring at the port of Mechuque.
We went ashore for a walk through the town and a visit to the funky
Museo Historico Don Paulino. Miguel purchased oysters in town and we
had a feast back on board Cahuella.
The Mechuque Expedition
The next morning, February 25th, our intrepid band of Shackleton wannabes set off for the summit of Isla Mechuque in hopes of finding civilization—or at least Cahuella—on the far side. It was a delightful climb and descent with fine views in all directions, and when we reached the beach Cahuella had indeed motored around the island to meet us. From there we sailed across to the main island of Chiloé and visited the small ports of San Juan and Tenuan to see their colorful and historic wooden churches. We spent the night moored at Isla Caucahue, just off Chiloé a few kilometers east of Quemchi.
Going Ashore
We weighed anchor and left Isla Caucahue at the crack of doom, westbound for Quemchi, where we said farewell to Cahuella and her crew. We shuttled by van to Ancud, at the north end of Chiloé, and had lunch at Mascaron de Proa restaurant. Then we were privileged to be ushered into Austral Adventures World Headquarters in Ancud and to meet the mysterious Britt (who some of us suspected was really just a avatar on the company web site and a computer-generated voice on the phone). Finally, we drove southwest to see the penguin colony at Puñihuil, drove back through Ancud to Chacao, and took the ferry to Pargua. We returned Miguel to his grateful family in Puerto Montt and continued to Puerto Varas, where we checked in once again to the Hotel Bellavista.
Puñihuil Penguin Colony
Click Pingüineras Puñihuil for more information.