Cahuella
After flying into Puerto Montt and staying overnight at the Hotel Bellavista in Puerto Varas, we took a van shuttle back to Puerto Montt and stopped to see the local market. Then we drove south along the Seno de Reloncavi to La Arena and caught the ferry to Puelche. We continued south and then east until the road ended and spent the night in two (very) cozy cabins in Hornopiren. The next morning, February 21st, we went down to the docks and were shuttled by Zodiac to Cahuella, our home for the next five days. Operated by Austral Adventures, Cahuella is a 50-foot wooden motor cruiser built in the traditional fishing boat style of the region and is perfect for cruising the spectacular fjords and archipelagoes of the Golfo de Ancud.
Our guide, Miguel—another walking encyclopedia, and a photography expert in the bargain—took care of every detail and made the entire trip sublime. I can't find enough superlatives to describe the crew of Cahuella. Our cook Nati (Natalya) produced one miracle after another from her 1-meter square galley. Captain Wladimir and his first mate/brother Jonah were jovial, humorous, and extremely competent. Their father and second mate Rosi (Rosamel) quickly became our enthusiastic cheerleader, greeting us all with hugs and incomprehensible Spanish when we returned from an outing in the Zodiac.
Our guide, Miguel—another walking encyclopedia, and a photography expert in the bargain—took care of every detail and made the entire trip sublime. I can't find enough superlatives to describe the crew of Cahuella. Our cook Nati (Natalya) produced one miracle after another from her 1-meter square galley. Captain Wladimir and his first mate/brother Jonah were jovial, humorous, and extremely competent. Their father and second mate Rosi (Rosamel) quickly became our enthusiastic cheerleader, greeting us all with hugs and incomprehensible Spanish when we returned from an outing in the Zodiac.
Cruising the Fjords
We cruised south from Hornopiren, taking an excursion in and out of Fiordo Quintupeu to the east, and then encountered a sea lion colony at the entrance to Fiordo Cahuelmó. At the east end of the fjord we stopped to bathe in a hot springs. We cruised further south into Fiordo Comau toward Leptepú and spent the night near Vodudahue, tied up a few feet from a spectacular fjord cliff rising vertically out of the water. To the east, north, and south of us was the vast Parque Pumalin (also see Wikipedia or download a map), a controversial 1,255 square mile nature preserve endowed by an American businessman. There are very few places where you can go ashore in these fjords, because either the cliffs are vertical or the vegetation is so thick you would need a machete.
Sea Lion Colony at Fiordo Cahuelmó
Porcelana
In the morning, after a marvelous breakfast on board, we cruised around Fiordo Comau and dunked ourselves in another hot springs at Porcelana. For lunch we had the conger that Rosi had caught with his drop line that morning.
Paulina and Pumalin
Next we cruised a little further to "Paulina's place," a little homestead where Paulina sells her weavings and invites visitors to walk a bit up to her beautiful river and viewing point. We bought some jam and Paulina's daughter picked garlic from the garden for us.
After lunch, when the tide came up enough, we took a Zodiac ride up the Rio Vodudahue to visit the Fundo Vodudahue farm in Parque Pumalin. We had a lovely walk through an impeccably kept native tree nursery, berry fields, and other agricultural and experimental areas. A short, steep climb took us to a great spot overlooking the river valley and the fjord, and then we returned via a different route over a dicey hanging bridge. We walked back through a rain squall but we soon reached the Zodiac and were rewarded with a glorious full rainbow (double at one point).
After lunch, when the tide came up enough, we took a Zodiac ride up the Rio Vodudahue to visit the Fundo Vodudahue farm in Parque Pumalin. We had a lovely walk through an impeccably kept native tree nursery, berry fields, and other agricultural and experimental areas. A short, steep climb took us to a great spot overlooking the river valley and the fjord, and then we returned via a different route over a dicey hanging bridge. We walked back through a rain squall but we soon reached the Zodiac and were rewarded with a glorious full rainbow (double at one point).